Rachel Scott presented her first complete collection as creative director of Proenza Schouler at New York Fashion Week for the Fall 2026 season. Scott assumed leadership of the brand following the departure of founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who left to lead Loewe in Paris. This collection marks her debut effort from start to finish at Proenza Schouler since her appointment was announced just prior to last September’s event.
The show received support from notable designers including Maria Cornejo, Veronica Leoni of Calvin Klein, and Raul Lopez of Luar, reflecting respect from industry peers. Scott, who also runs her own label Diotima, is managing the demands of both brands during fashion week.
Describing the Proenza Schouler woman of this season, Scott characterized her as “deathly punctual and always on time—but today she was running late.” In a preview of the collection, Scott differentiated her approach from that of McCollough and Hernandez, expressing a desire to close the perceived gap between the wearer and an often “impeccable” and sometimes intimidating ideal. Her aim is to infuse complexity, texture, and subtle eroticism into the designs, while maintaining the brand’s established identity.
The collection featured pieces that were elegant and polished, such as a sculpturally rounded sleeveless dress and neat midi-length skirt suits. However, Scott introduced elements of off-kilter design like asymmetric lapels, intentionally askew buttons shaping draped silhouettes, and exposed darts on a bold red evening sheath, creating a balance of refinement with imperfections.
Hints of eroticism appeared in the details, such as pleats beneath skirt cutaways and skin revealed by ruffle-edged trouser slits. Scott’s proficiency with crochet, evident in her Diotima line, influenced Proenza’s designs, including a donegal knit double-breasted skirt suit with a peplum back and a figure-hugging ribbed knit polo dress.
The collection’s earthier tones and tactile sensibility were most pronounced in orchid print garments inspired by Scott’s personal cultivation of the flowers. These prints combined hand-painted techniques with photography, retaining raw edges to merge handmade and digital effects.
Scott has quickly acquainted herself with Proenza Schouler’s heritage and aesthetic. With this first full collection under her direction, she appears poised to gradually incorporate more of her distinctive creative spirit into the brand’s future offerings.
